From the bustling streets of New York's Little Italy to the vibrant districts of Chinatown in San Francisco and Koreatown in Los Angeles, ethnic enclaves offer glimpses into diverse cultures thriving within foreign countries. As a resident of Japan for the past six years, I have been struck with homesickness more times than I count, often relying on the foreign import store Kaldi or the famous or infamous Don Quijote to get a taste of back home.
However, tucked away in Saitama, Japan, lies a hidden gem that may surprise many – Johnson Town. Yes, you read that right, Johnson Town is an American town nestled in Iruma, Saitama!
History of Johnson Town
Johnson Town is a unique blend of American heritage and Japanese ambiance. Originally known as Isono Housing, this quaint town has a captivating story that dates back to the tumultuous years following World War II. In the aftermath of the war, the US military seized control of the area, transforming it into Johnson Base. Over the years, it served as a home for American military personnel and their families, giving rise to the iconic "US military houses" that still stand today, echoing the architecture of suburban America.
However, as times changed and military operations shifted, Johnson Base was returned to Japan in 1978, paving the way for a new chapter in the history of the town. With the departure of American military personnel, the houses lay vacant, leading to a period of neglect and deterioration. Yet, in the spirit of resilience and renewal, efforts were made to revitalize the area. Therefore, in 2004, a comprehensive reconstruction plan was put into action, aimed at transforming the dilapidated housing into a vibrant community known as Johnson Town.
Since then, a remarkable transformation has taken place, with Heisei Houses – modern low-rise homes – blending seamlessly with the nostalgic charm of the original US military houses. Today, Johnson Town stands as a testament to the enduring ties between the two nations, offering residents and visitors alike a glimpse into a truly unique cultural fusion.
From its humble beginnings as a military base to its current status as a thriving residential enclave, Johnson Town embodies the spirit of cooperation and cultural exchange. As you wander through its tree-lined streets and quaint neighborhoods, you can't help but marvel at the harmonious blend of American history and Japanese hospitality that defines this remarkable community.
Day Trip to Johnson Town
Upon parking, we stepped into a scene that blended elements of an American suburb with a touch of nostalgia. The houses, many repurposed into shops filled with Americana, stirred memories of childhood—Lucky Charms boxes, cans of Sloppy Joe, and vintage McDonald's toys adorned the walls, was a trip down memory lane.
The weather was beautiful so we wandered through the maze-like streets lined with houses so similar yet distinct. As we wandered, admiring the vintage military housing and capturing snapshots of English street signs, we couldn't resist having in a meal at Blue Corn Café, known for its American fare.
Inside, the décor boasted license plates from nearly every state, alongside vintage Americana and Disney memorabilia. We ordered burgers and nachos, and unexpectedly, the nachos were topped with jalapenos—a delightful departure from the ordinary! After eating, we took a leisurely stroll through the nearby Fujimi Park, where cherry blossoms were in full bloom, transporting us back to Japan.
Regrettably, due to the long drive, we had to leave sooner than we'd have liked, but our hearts were content with the day's adventure. As an American, I found Johnson Town endearing, albeit more reflective of a Japanese interpretation of American culture rather than a town specifically tailored for Americans, like Chinatown or Little Italy. Yet, amidst the absence of American grocery stores or brand-name clothing outlets, I couldn't help but appreciate the Japanese embrace of my culture—from cowboy hats to vintage knickknacks, a testament to their admiration.
While I might have been the lone American wanderer that day, the experience left an indelible impression. Though Johnson Town may not replicate the familiarity of America, it offers a unique lens through which to appreciate the cross-cultural exchange. Perhaps next time, I'll venture there alone, eager to delve deeper into its charm and history!
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