Recently, I visited Hakone, Japan for the first time. Living in Kanagawa, Hakone is a popular day trip spot, boasting beautiful nature and clear views of Mt. Fuji. Although less known, compared to other popular tourist destinations, such as Kyoto, Nikko, and Osaka, I find myself wanting to recommend Hakone as a must-see area for tourist to drop by to enjoy the slower, more traditional, and nature filled side of Japan.
Location
Hakone is a mountainous town in Kanagawa Prefecture of Japan. It's known for its hot springs (onsen), beautiful views of Mount Fuji, and the volcanic valleys surrounding Lake Ashi. Many people visit Hakone for its scenic landscapes, traditional ryokan (inns), and the Hakone Open-Air Museum. The area is also famous for its art museums, including the Pola Museum of Art and the Hakone Museum of Art.
Transportation
To get to Hakone, we took the Odakyu Romance Car from Machida, Tokyo, and was in Hakone in little under an hour! If you are coming from Yokohama, there's easy access from Shin-Yokohama Station using the bullet train as well. On the way back, we took the Tokaido Line Green Car to Yokohama station from Odawara.
The Odakyu Romance car was a really quick and quiet ride. The conductor told us when we would see Mt. Fuji, and I felt like just when I was relaxing in my seat, we were already arriving at Hakone-Yumoto station, which is in the heart of Hakone!
Although the Autumn leaves had yet to fully appear, the sheer amount of nature was so refreshing. Our hotel was right on the riverside and a few minutes from the transportation hub of Hakone. Because it was only a one night trip, I didn't book a hotel with a onsen, but next time, it's a must!
Hakone Open Air Museum
The first day of our trip, we visited the Hakone Open Air Musuem, which was amazing and fun to just meander and look around. To get there from Hakone-Yumoto station, you'll just take a 40 minute train up the mountain, and can experience the interesting switch-back technique the train uses.
The Hakone Open-Air Museum is a unique art museum located in the town of Hakone, Japan. What sets it apart is its vast outdoor exhibition space that showcases various sculptures and art installations set amidst beautiful natural surroundings. The museum features a diverse collection of sculptures by both Japanese and international artists. I loved the variety of pieces, and the informal atmosphere and how integrated into nature it was. There was a nice little café inside to take a quick break, and we even took advantage of the free foot onsen (Ashi-yu), which was really fun and refreshing.
Sengokuhara Pampas Grass Fields
After the Hakone Open Air Museum, we ate a small burger joint, and then we went to the Sengokuhara Grass field. The Sengokuhara Pampas Grass Fields in Hakone are expansive fields covered with tall golden pampas grass, also known as susuki grass. This natural attraction offers stunning scenery, especially during the autumn months when the grass turn a vibrant golden hue. While possible to get to the grass field from the museum, I don't recommend this journey if you have a baby or stroller since you'll need to take a long walk from the train station to the bus, but if you're young and adventurous, it is quite nice walking alongside the trees as you descend the mounting, exploring the non-touristy side of Hakone.
The grass field was also really nice, especially because we arrived a little before golden hour, so the sun made the grass glisten! The main field is not as vast as I thought it would be, and the trail just cuts right down the middle, but it's a cute photo spot and easy on the eyes. Plus, there's a park nearby and convenience store as well, so you could possibly have a picnic nearby.
To end the day, we ate at the Japanese restaurant Kinosuke, and I had the most amazing, tender, grilled mackerel marinated in Mirin (Japanese sake). I loved the traditional Japanese meal, and the cozy atmosphere.
Hakone Shrine
On our second day, we set out early to go to Moto-Hakone-Ko, which is another popular destination in Hakone known for its red torii gate on the lake Ashi. We visited Hakone Shrine, a short walk from the bus stop, so that I can get my stamp from the temple, and then we boarded a majestic pirate ship to cross lake Ashi!
Although boarding the pirate ship is free if you buy the Hakone free pass, if you pay around 900 yen, you can get VIP entry, which allows you lounge access at the front of the ship and a bar offering a variety of drinks. We opted for the VIP entry, which was nearly empty and had unobstructed views of Mt. Fuji the whole way there! Totally worth the extra fee!
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Owakudani
We took the ship to Togendai because we wanted to ride the ropeway through the volcano valley. The wait was extremely long, but we boarded the ropeway and off we were to Owakudani. Owakudani, also known as the "Great Boiling Valley," is a volcanic valley located in Hakone, Japan. It's a popular tourist destination known for its active volcanic activity and scenic views. The area was formed from the eruption of Mount Hakone around 3,000 years ago. It is also known for its black boiled eggs called Kuro-tamago. They are boiled in the sulfuric water, which makes the shells turn black. It is said they add 7 years to your life if you eat one!
Unfortunately, we didn't get to eat a black egg, as they were already sold out when we arrived, but it was okay because we actually got to take a tour through the volcanic valley and saw the eggs being boiled and harvested! It was such a nice experience, and if you can, I recommend you to book a tour as well, since they are only 500 yen!
Hakone Yuryo
After enjoying soba, which Hakone is known for, it was time for the finale. We booked a day spa at a spa resort. We booked access to the public onsen and a meal at Hakone Yuryo! Hakone Yuryo is a popular hot spring (onsen) facility located in Hakone, Japan. It's known for its relaxing and therapeutic hot spring baths, making it a sought-after destination for both tourists and locals seeking to unwind and experience traditional Japanese bathing culture.
It was my first time going to a public onsen, but I got used to it quickly. It was almost empowering just seeing women being natural! Kids can get in too if they graduated from wearing a diaper! The water felt amazing and there were many different pools, indoor and outdoor. The meal was also really tasty and I just felt so relaxed there.
As you can see, we did quite a lot in two days, and for me, I actually don't recommend it if you actually live in Japan. I would have liked to explore piece by piece and not cram so many activities! I would like to go back, just randomly, because I felt like I missed so much.
Another thing is that we underestimated was the transportation. The transportation was slow due to the windy roads and traffic congestion, and the trains and buses were super crowded! We often had to wait for the next bus because it was just too full. I also felt queasy holding onto the bus strap for nearly 40 minutes on a windy bus. It felt like a god send to be able to sit.
Therefore, if Hakone is kind a of a once in a year or lifetime trip for you, definitely do all the activities you can and take advantage of the Hakone free pass. If not, then I recommend taking it easy and dragging things out over time!
Have you been to Hakone? Please tell me your experience in the comments below, and also any hidden gems or activities you'd recommend for foreigners!
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