Zushi is a laid-back seaside city on the Miura Peninsula, just about an hour from Tokyo and only 30 minutes from Yokohama. It’s known for its relaxed local vibe, wide sandy beach, and as a chill alternative to the more crowded Kamakura.
A little further down the coast is Hayama, a small upscale resort town famous for its beautiful coastline, yacht harbor, and even as the site of the Imperial Family’s summer villa. The whole Miura Peninsula is actually my favorite area in Japan, so I knew whatever the day had in store would be right up my alley.
We started off strolling along Zushi Beach around 10 AM. It was just waking up, with only a handful of people scattered about. The sea was calm, so not many surfers yet, but mostly swimmers and folks lounging on colorful floaties.
Our first real stop was Hayama Marina. We drank some beers and chilled out by the lighthouse pier. There was practically no one else there, so we had an uninterrupted view of the water, which was slowly filling up with paddle boarders and jet skis. Super peaceful.
After that, we took a short walk over to Marlowe, a well-known restaurant and café famous for its glass jar puddings. Just before going, I had been talking about how much I love mitarashi dango (sweet rice dumplings covered in a sticky soy sauce glaze (both sweet and salty)), and what do you know, Marlowe was offering a limited edition mitarashi dango pudding that day!
We were seated at a cozy window seat looking out over the ocean. The place was this perfect mix of chic and relaxed. We split a seafood ajillo made with super fresh local tobiuo (flying fish), plus a gorgeous steak with roasted veggies. Everything was perfectly seasoned and cooked, and honestly came out so fast I barely had time to sip my drink.
Then came the pudding, which was chilled, smooth and absolutely delicious. The mitarashi sauce was spot on. You can even order pudding to take home, which I 100% recommend if you live nearby.
On the way back to the station, we passed by Zushi Beach again, now totally packed with people of all ages. We stopped at one of the many little beach shacks for some shaved ice and just sat under the shade, watching the summer chaos go by.
If you’re looking for something a bit more relaxed than the busy beaches of Kamakura but still want all the summer fun, I’d totally recommend checking out Zushi and Hayama. It’s the perfect little escape without going too far from the city.